Improved heat... Soon!

Same problem here too. Heat works great but not the defroster.... Use a towel every time i get in the car.

WELL BRAD IF YOU NEED SOME COVER FROM THE RAIN YOU CAN COME BY THE SHOP AND WORK ON IT IF YOUD LIKE. ALL I HAVE TO DO IS PULL MY BUG OUT OF MY NEW "REPAIR BAY" AND YOU CAN PULL IN AND ILL STILL HAVE ROOM TO DO SMOGS IF NEED BE.


YOU MIGHT EVEN WANT TO DO A LITTLE MORE WORK LIKE GETTING THOSE DROP SPINDLES ON YOUR CAR SINCE YOU DIDNT BRING THEM TO TECH DAY

That sounds good... I will do that.. got a few things to do then I will be over in a bit.

Lowered and heat...a double threat.

I drove by on the way home from Grass Valley at about 4:30pm.

The rat rod was out in the parking lot, so were you guys inside?

I didn't think anyone was there, since the doors were all closed, but I ddin't even think about you guys being inside...

I should have stopped to take a closer look.

Intersted in how the blowers turned out.

I left around 1:30.. don't know if Cliff was still there.

It works.. kind of.. I only used one blower and hooked it to both defrosters on just the ends. I put the switch in and that is nice to be able to turn it down and up.
I closed up all the windows and drove the long way home with heat full on. The windows started fogging up, but at the corners about 7 or 8" in all the way to the top stayed clear... SOOOOO>>

I need to hook up the other 3 defroster vents (mine where missing).. Put in the second fan unit and I think it will work like a charm.

So on the 68 beetles.. and up I believe.. there is a total of 5 defrost vents.. the metal ones on the corners and the 3 plastics ones also used for fresh air.
If one fan runs 2 1/2 vents and the other fan runs the other 2 1/2 vents (the middle vent has two inlets).. I think it will work great.

It is amazing how warm my car gets with the windows rolled up and heater on.. so if I can get the fogging to stop.. will be good to go.

But my science is sound and now proven.. just need to modify it a bit more and it will work great. Also want to do a real clean job on the install.. right now looks like a country bumkin installed it...LOL

But you will need to get some adapters which I found at Hills Flat lumber.. I am sure Home Depot will have them as well.

I will take some pics tomorrow and post.

I think that no matter what you do the fogging will continue as there is no air conditioning. The A/C removes the moisture out of the air thereby helping defog the windows. I am sure the heat will be fantastic though. I like the idea of the rheostat to control the fans. Great idea.

This is not true.. I have owned many a vehicle in my day that did not have A/C.. in fact the A/C trick is only been in the last 10 years or so.. Most heaters in cars are just a small radiator under the dash that the warm water flows thru and a blower blows it up..

The fogging is due to warm air in the cab that has moisture in it combined with a cold windshield... you have to either get rid of the moisture (not going to happen right now) or get the windshield warm enough not to create this chemical change. I proved that my theory works.. as I had a lot larger clear spots on the windshield than ever before.. just got to get the heat to spread across the windshield instead of just on the ends. Which in the 68's and up you can do because of the extra vents they put in them.

In the earlier models.. nothing you can do.. maybe a more powerful blower would work.. but just keeping the moisture out will also take care of it. Right now I have water coming in thru the windshield rubber because whomever installed the headliner did not trim the excess material back far enough when they re-installed the windshield. So water is entering the rubber a bit and the fabric from the headliner is wicking the water into the cab.. thus dripping water onto the carpet and seats and keeping the front part of the headliner wet.

If I can ever get a couple of dry days.. (looks like maybe next week).. I can some sealant in the rubber and maybe stop it or at least slow it down.

We shall see what happens when I get the other vents installed.. I have the plastic vents for under the dash (thanks Eric) but need to find some of the top vents to hold them in place.

In our deseil trucks we have heated mirrors. I wonder if that could help in some way

Nope.. had those in a 4x4 once... it is just an electric wire that gets warm on the back of the mirror.. Same concept with heating the glass (mirror), but no way to do that with a windshield... just like the newer VW's have the heat strips on the back window.. got's to get the window warm.

Weather is supposed to get better there John, will give you a call and set up a play date Robin's schedule changes a lot, but I am sure we can find some time to go down the hill!

MATT, I WAS THERE TILL ABOUT 6PM. AS LONG AS ONE OF THE GATES ARE OPEN SOMEONE IS THERE. I HAD THE SHOP DOORS CLOSED CUZ IT WAS COLD.

BRAD, GLAD IT WORKS. MAYBE YOU CAN INSTALL SOME DIRECTING BLADES INTO THE CORNERS LIKE THE VENTS ON NEWER CARS THAT WAY YOU CAN AIM THE AIR MORE TOWARD THE REAR VIEW MIRROR???? AGAIN GLAD IT WORKS.....KINDA

LIKE I TOLD BRAD WHILE HE WAS WORKING ON THE BLOWER, ITS GREAT EVERYONE IS ON BOARD TO GET THE HEATING ISSUES WORKING AND TAKEN CARE OF. NOW JUST WATCH.....ITLL BE 70-80 DEGREES AS SOON AS EVERYONE THAT WANTS ONE HAS GREAT WORKING HEAT/DEFROSTERS. OH WAIT.......NOW HOW CAN I INSTALL A/C INTO MY VW???? ITS TO HOT NOW

No kidding Cliff, It's supposed to be in the mid to high 70's next week.

I hope you don't think I am against your idea Brad. I think it will surely help and it is a great idea.

Oh.. not at all. I have just done a ton of research on this the last couple of weeks and sharing all that I learn with everyone. The pursuit of making our little cars better!

That's all we can hope for.

I hear ya Cliff.

That's is why I said you all should thank me, because I am sure the rain will stop since I ordered some blowers.

But they can sit on the shelf until next year if need be. OR I am sure, when summer comes around and it is 110 in the shade you will see me post some nonsense about installing the blowers in an ice chest full of ice to get cool air into the cab.

My heater works well, and like Brad mentioned, it is the moisture that is the problem. The real answer is fixing the rubber that was either installed incorrectly or deteriorated becasue it is over 40 years old. But that solution is $450 in my case for new door and side window rubber. 40 bucks for a couple of fans that might help the situation a bit and an afternoon doing some garage engineering is not a bad option for even the slightest benifit. And a little bit of fun along the way.

In my case, I drove the F350 instead of the Ghia in the rain one day. $50 in fuel, hard to park, it's invisibility cloke that I obviously don't know how to operate, etc...

I would have prefereed to drop a 20 dolla bill in the tank for the Ghia and had some fun for the day!!!

Check this out. The door rubber kit from these guys is $242.

Click Here

Yea, karmannghia.com is who I order most of my Ghia specific parts from. They love me.

That kit does not include the rear quarter window rubber pieces or some smaller items like the window anti-rattle grommets which I am missing and keep the glass against the window rubber.

When it's all totaled up, I am at around $450 for both sides.

Thier catalog is awesome by the way, the exploded parts views in the catalog are great.

Thanks for keeping an eye out though.

I've heard their stuff is top notch.

Complete Rubber Kit for Karmann Ghia 1967-69 $372.95

All Ghia rubber includes a lifetime warranty against manufacturer defects. This kit is recommended for complete restorations or for cars that have been stripped and painted. Order the Ghia Body Rubber Kit and save money over purchasing each seal individually.


Cal-Look Seals are solid black seals (no groove). American Style Seals have a groove cut in that accepts the original chrome factory trim. (Trim not included.)

Includes: (Left & Right Side where applicable)</B>


<LI>(A.)Front Turn Signal Seals
<LI>(B.)Headlight Ring to Body Seals
<LI>(C.)Hood Seal
<LI>(D.)Deck Lid Seal
<LI>(E.)Tail Light Seals
<LI>(F.)License Light Housing to Deck Lid Seal
<LI>(G.)Windshield Seal, (Choose Cal-Look or American Style)
<LI>(H.)Driver & Passenger Window Seals
<LI>(I.)Quarter Window Seals
<LI>(J.)Rear Window Seal (Choose Cal-Look or American Style)
<LI>(K.)Door Pillar Seals
<LI>(L.)Door Seals
<LI>(M.)Fresh Air vent Seals
<LI>
NOTE: KIT ALSO INCLUDES (Not Pictured)
<LI>

<LI>Outside Window Rubber Scrappers (Rubber Only)
<LI>Inside Window Felt Channels
<LI>Door Checkrods
<LI>Rear Door Wedges
<LI>Anti Rattle Stops
<LI>Clips, Inside Window Felt Channel Slots
<LI>Clips, Outside Scrappers
<LI>Door Handle Seals
<LI>Nose Emblem Base Seals

</LI>

http://www.jbugs.com/category/2223.html

WHEN THEY SAY LIFETIME THEY MEAN LIFETIME. JUST LIKE SNAPON AND THEIR HANDTOOLS. THEY WILL EVEN REPLACE DOOR SEALS FROM WEAR AND TEAR.

I forgot about jbugs. Those guys are great.

Sweet!

Thanks for the heads-up Cliff.

Well Matt.. your's dryin' out? Mine is. Drove it around good today with windows partially opened and drying it out good..

I am not impressed with the air flow out of that fan.. I did a little more research and am finding that by going from 1 1/2" to 3" is really cutting down the air flow. The unit is rated at 140cfm, or 100cfm with 3' of 3" ductwork.. so I bet I am only getting 50cfm coming out of a 1 1/2" duct.

So, I think I will mount them under the rear seat where they can flow better.

Something to think about, and it's even in the manual, is that you need to crack a window open when running the heat/defroster. VWs are really well sealed and allowing the damp air to escape while you pump in (hopefully) somewhat dryer air will help clear the windows -eventually.
Of course, if the carpets are soaked, it's an uphill battle. I have this problem. Edges of windshield leak and water wuns in via the vents.

Sometimes cranking up the heat and opening the windows a couple inches really helps pull some moisture out of the car.

She's still damp.

I drove her around a bit with the heat cranked and the sun roof cracked.

I am going to drive her up to Grass Valley tomorrow and let her sit out in 'hopefully' the sun.

I need to pick up some brake shoes form PFI tomorrow too, but that is another post.