Tail waggin

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could answer this. When I hit about 45 in my bug it starts to do a little "tail waggin" back and forth. It's really strange. Everything's tight in both the rear end and the front end, could it be the alignment causing this? Thanks for any help!

If you mean the front end goes left and right at 45, then yes. When I did my drop spindles I had the toe in way off and it did it at 25mph.. then it got better, then finally stopped by my third adjustment

Measure the front end.. tire to tire in the same spot.. say 2nd rib in from the end on both tires.. measure front, then back.. it should be no more than 1/8" less measurement on the front. Say 53 1/4" on the back then 53 1/8" on the front.. if it is toe'd out, it will try tracking left and right, or to much toe in.

By the way.. glad to hear from you.. wandered where you went

Brad's right. You want to be toed in 1/16" to 1/8" in front. You might also check the toe on the rear axle. I run the rear 0" to 1/16" toed in. it is adjustable by shifting the axle tubes forward or back on the spring plate slots. Measuring from the treads is okay, but it's better to jack up the car, spin the tires and "scribe" a line in the middle of the tire.

Eric is right. Scribe the line. It is a good method.

It could also be caused from a severely out-of-balance tire or a tire that is in the beginning stages of a separation.

So, I answered my own question today when I went out and looked around at my bug and there was gear oil coming out of my axle nut on the drivers side rear wheel. I looked at it for a bit and realized there was no cotter pin in it, then reached down and grabbed the axle nut and it was loose! When I changed out the transaxle a few weeks ago my Dad tightened the axle nuts and installed cotter pins! He barely bent the cotter pins after installation, and when I questioned it he said it would be good to go! Apparently not! BUT, it's all good now! Thanks for the quick responses guys I really appreciate it! See you tomorrow at show and shine!

Admin wrote:

If you mean the front end goes left and right at 45, then yes. When I did my drop spindles I had the toe in way off and it did it at 25mph.. then it got better, then finally stopped by my third adjustment

Measure the front end.. tire to tire in the same spot.. say 2nd rib in from the end on both tires.. measure front, then back.. it should be no more than 1/8" less measurement on the front. Say 53 1/4" on the back then 53 1/8" on the front.. if it is toe'd out, it will try tracking left and right, or to much toe in.

By the way.. glad to hear from you.. wandered where you went

I was camping all last week Brad, didn't have much time to hop on, I'll be around though, hope you're not getting too attatched this quick though, I don't like being tied down!!!

To late for that buddy.. .your married with kids...

Admin wrote:

To late for that buddy.. .your married with kids...

Very true! But I like it!

Glad you got it fixed before it developed into some major trouble.

60herbie53 wrote:

Glad you got it fixed before it developed into some major trouble.

Me too thanks!

TORQUE THOSE DOWN REAL GOOD. THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO BE TORQUED TO LIKE 500 LB FT OR SOMETHING CLOSE. ILL LOOK IT UP WHEN I GET TO THE SHOP. I USUALLY HIT THEM REALLY GOOD WITH THE AIR GUN (HIGHEST SETTING TILL THEY WONT TURN NO MORE).

217 to 225 ft lbs is recommended. I use one of those flame-cut beater sockets and a 3 lb hammer.

I like this guys approach also:
Here's what I do:
"I get out my 36mm socket and my big breaker bar.
My weight is about 160 so I take 217/160 = 1.36
Multiply 1.36 x 12 inches = about 16 1/3 inches
Take a pen and make a mark on the breaker bar at 16 1/3 inches.
Stand on the bar at that mark. Don't bounce on it, just stand.
When the bar doesn't turn anymore from your weight, it's at 217 lbs., insert the cotter pin.
If the cotter pin holes are a little off, tighten it a tiny bit more until they line up.

Substitute your weight above for my 160."
_________________

speedbuggy wrote:

217 to 225 ft lbs is recommended. I use one of those flame-cut beater sockets and a 3 lb hammer.

I like this guys approach also:
Here's what I do:
"I get out my 36mm socket and my big breaker bar.
My weight is about 160 so I take 217/160 = 1.36
Multiply 1.36 x 12 inches = about 16 1/3 inches
Take a pen and make a mark on the breaker bar at 16 1/3 inches.
Stand on the bar at that mark. Don't bounce on it, just stand.
When the bar doesn't turn anymore from your weight, it's at 217 lbs., insert the cotter pin.
If the cotter pin holes are a little off, tighten it a tiny bit more until they line up.

Substitute your weight above for my 160."
_________________

Hell I just use my 1/2" torque wrench.

That works too!

cldaslfe wrote:

speedbuggy wrote:

217 to 225 ft lbs is recommended. I use one of those flame-cut beater sockets and a 3 lb hammer.

I like this guys approach also:
Here's what I do:
"I get out my 36mm socket and my big breaker bar.
My weight is about 160 so I take 217/160 = 1.36
Multiply 1.36 x 12 inches = about 16 1/3 inches
Take a pen and make a mark on the breaker bar at 16 1/3 inches.
Stand on the bar at that mark. Don't bounce on it, just stand.
When the bar doesn't turn anymore from your weight, it's at 217 lbs., insert the cotter pin.
If the cotter pin holes are a little off, tighten it a tiny bit more until they line up.

Substitute your weight above for my 160."
_________________

Hell I just use my 1/2" torque wrench.

Same here.

I use an 18 inch breaker bar with a 36 mm socket, I weigh about 155 so it should be pretty dam close! I don't think she will come loose again!

Good deal.