slow cranking

The dune buggy turns over very slow. It is a 1500 single, new wire harness, ignition switch, battery, cables, starter rebuilt by boyle (so you know it's right), points, condenser, cap, rotor, coil, valves are adjusted, new rings and a valve job, extra ground wire to the starter. It just doesn't crank very fast and when it is warmed up it almost, or doesn't start. Any ideas???
Thanks

Still sounds like a starter or battery problem. Rebuilt or not, the starter can be affected by heat.. especially the soilinoid on top of the starter.

When it runs.. does it run good.. smooth? Good acceleration? When you stop the motor, does it stop sudden or does it seem normal?

It is possible to get a bad battery from the store.. have had it happen. Might want to take it to AutoZone and have them test the battery.. it's free.

The old 74 Standard I had cranked slow with a stock starter, and cranked normal with a high-torque starter. A VW mechanic told me the motor was probably on its last leg, you know, just getting worn out.

Other than that, I'd say battery or starter problems.

I took the starter back to Boyle and they tested it, and took it apart to make sure it was fine. I guess I will load test the battery next. And yes the car does hesitate, carb does need tuning because it wants to die when you come to a stop. The timing could be off a little? Anyway, thanks for the info, and any more ideas would be appreciated.
Andy

Have you checked the end play in the crankshaft? If the flywheel is too tight against the rear main brg, it would give the symptoms you're having. I have a dial indicator that you're welcome to borrow.

I did not think of that one! Thanks for the idea, do I need to pull the engine to check, or can I check endplay from the pulley side?

You can check it from the pulley side. Take your indicator reading on the pulley nut so that you aren't reading "pulley flex".

thanks, I will give it a shot. I do have to pull the motor soon because my oil cooler seals are leaking badly and need replacement asap. By the way I have an appointment with the Smog referee on Monday, so it will me nice to get that out of my hair.

I'm doing mine tomorrow morning.I'll let you know how it goes.I still have that exhaust if you want it.

So much for the smog check today. They called as I was leaving and said their electricity was out and would I like to reschedule for next Friday? I said "Why not, I'm RICH! I can miss all the work I need to until this is resolved! lol

Isn't it nice that they make you bend over backwards for them.

If anyone cares, - When I dropped the engine to fix the major oil cooler seal leakage, I noticed that the brass 6V to 12V starter adapter bushing was wore funny. I guess that when I ground out the bellhousing to fit the 12V flywheel I didn't grind enough and when the flywheel (being turned by the starter) finished grinding itself in, it caused the bushing to wear funny, thus making the starter bind and crank slow. So yes it is fixed, and I guess that I am really an idiot for not checking my clearances in the first place.

I had a 62 bug a while back that I ground out the bellhousing to fit in a later engine.
I had ground out the bellhousing once, tried to fit the engine in, it was too tight, ground it out once more it fit in but the flywheel still rubbed, took it out a third time, more grinding, third time was a charm it worked fine (What a mess).

This go round on my 64 bus I bought a hybrid 12 volt starter for a 6 to 12 volt conversion from a samba ad.
I removed the old 6 volt starter and bushing, added the new bushing bolted in the starter, started the engine with no problems and it still works great and I did not have to grind out the bellhousing to fit a 12 volt flywheel.

I do believe that is what they are called. I run them on everything. They do not extend into you tranny no bushing to mess up. Type 4's use them I have one on my bug, and my engine stand. If you look around you can get them at Bugorama for a good price. Not to many people know they are an option.