Idea for intermittent tail lights

So my tail lights are starting to drive me nuts.

I sanded all the contacts and bent them back in as much as I could, but the bulbs seem to still wiggle loose and since I am paranoid sometimes one or two are not working when I check them.

I take the lens covers off and re-seat the bulbs and everything is fine.

My thought was to drill and tap a set screw into the tail light bracket for each bulb and then lightly tighten the set screw against the bulb with some Lock-Tite.

Anybody have this problem or see any issues with my idea?!

I had the same problem on an old Nova Wagon project. I ended up going to the auto parts store and purchasing a new bulb holder. It came with wires attached, so all I had to do was remove the old one and wire in the new. If nobody has any better suggestions, it may be an option.

If all else fails, and I hate to say this, go with LED lights. Only if you have to!

Andy wrote:

I had the same problem on an old Nova Wagon project. I ended up going to the auto parts store and purchasing a new bulb holder. It came with wires attached, so all I had to do was remove the old one and wire in the new. If nobody has any better suggestions, it may be an option.

I had the same issue on my 70 Nova. I replaced the socket with a better one from another car, no problems since.

Sometimes,(with the bulb removed) you can carefully pinch the diameter of the light socket with a pair of pliers. It forces the socket "egg-shaped" and the bulb will fit tighter. Go carefully! It doesn't take much.

oh ya I had forgot about that trick, It works well. The main thing to fix is the ground spot on the light bulb has to make good contact.

TOTALLY AGREE WITH ALL OF THE ABOVE.

FOR SURE MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD GROUNDS! YOU CAN DO ALL THE QUEEZING, CHANGING OF SOCKETS, ETC. BUT IF YOU HAVE BAD GROUNDS IT WILL CONTINUE.

Dis-similar metals corrode when they touch from trading electrons, especially in electrical circuits. The bulb bases and the holder are dis-similar metals. The corrosion process is called electrolysis and the corrosion layer is usually so thin, it's invisible.
Sanding is always a bad idea. Use a green Scotch-brite.
Little grains of sand embed and often break the contact after a short period of electrolysis.

When all else fails, use some dielectric grease. This will keep microfilms or corrosion from occurring. this is your issue. it's invisible, but enough to break the contact. Be sure ALL of the other connections are good, including the screws that hold the silver-ish reflectors in. these are the grounds and need to be good.

As stated, also bend the holder and contact so they hold the bulb securely. This will help.

I run a 6 volt car and everything works perfectly and strongly, even without the engine running. A little dab of that dielectric grease is worth its weight in gold.
Any auto part store will have it.