Holley Electric Fuel Pump - Opinions

Ok, anyone have any opinions on electric fuel pump brands?

I have decided to use an electric fuel pump for a clean look and for safety to keep fuel behind the shroud.

I was thinking of a hard line attached to the back of the fan shroud, with short hoses to connect the carbs on each side. I have seen this and it looks clean...

I was looking at the Holley Red Label pump with the Holley regulator to get the psi below 2 for my temperamental Kadrons.

Anyone have any experience with these? Noisy, reliable, etc...

I also heard the Holley's were illegal in California, but like what isn't in Cali.

So, opinions, suggestions, ideas????

Thanks...

Holley Red for your application. I personally would mount the pump hidden away under the car somewhere, then run a fuel line up the firewall to a regulator, then the fuel lines to the carbs. I hear it's better to have equal length fuel lines from the regulator to each carb.

I don't know much about the pump.. but do know you want to push more gas than pull. So mount the fuel pump as close to the gas tank as possible. And David's right, equal length on the lines. Run the line on the fire wall, not shroud.. to much vibration on the shroud. Put the fuel pressure reg on the fire wall almost in the middle the your tee in the middle.
I have had good results in the past with this set up.

Under the gas tank. Hard lines as much as possible. I have used them all except a Holley I have a new knock off one right now but I have not used it. Go to Skip White Racing he has a Holley clone (my guess it is the same ) get a regulator. The only issue I have had is a NOS (new old stock) our new gas melted the rubber inside the fuel pump. I just removed a $30 rotary pump I have had for 12 years on my Porsche not a single problem.

If you run a regulator and a gauge so you know what is going on it will save you hours of frustration.

If you car is running good I would think twice about changing.

Good thoughts everyone, thanks for all the info.

I had planned on putting the pump itself under the fuel tank in the front of the car, but I didn't think about putting the fuel lines on the firewall. I was thinking on the shroud, but I get it, the firewall would be a better choice.

I had planned on centering the regulator with equal lengths of hard line on both sides.

Can I put a 'T' on one side for a guage? Will that effect the lines being equal?

The Holley regulator only has two ports, one for each carb was what I was thinking.

I could put a 'T' on the right side and put a guage there for adjustment of the regulator.

She is running good, so there is that to think about.

Equal length hose makes no difference Dellortos have a double banjo on the first carb than it feeds the other. It may be better and safer to put the gauge on the regulator and T the fuel lines.

Autozone sell I think 12 foot or 2 ten foot sections of bendable steel lines. You can use a bending spring and run one line front to back.

Check here for the fuel pump http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/listview.aspx?Product=H
They stand behind the parts they sell. Everything has worked great so far.

Good luck

Add a loop in the hard line (s) to stop any air bubbles from vibrations.

I have never heard of fuel lines getting air bubbles from anything, unless you're running out of fuel. As long as there's adequate fuel in the tank, the fuel pump keeps a constant amount of fuel running through the lines. I have never heard of anyone looping a fuel line for anything either.

Anything's possible, but that's my $0.02.

It was an old trick that I had gotten from my dad when we restored the 53 Jag. When a fuel line runs past heat the fuel will vaporize in the line. The loop allows it to reform in to liquid again.

I/we were confused and even more now where do you find heat on an aircooled. Harbor freight sells an electric heater and I may pick one up so I can defrost the windshield.

It is hard to imagine vapor lock with an electric fuel pump?

D

What kind of an electric heater?

I have been looking for a 12V ceramic type heater. My thoughts were if I could find a heater that would fit behind the back seat and either have a blower built in or use the marine type blowers to take the internal cab air from the rear seat vents, heat it up and then blow it through the exisitng vent system up front.

I have heard of people using a blower from a bus but I don't think I get all of the details of how that works.

My other thought was to use the marine turbine type turbine blowers mounted to flanges behind the firewall and then suck air from the cab and connect them to the heater boxes to blow air instead of the shorud. It is kind of my own thought on the booster systems, although I am sure someone has already thought of that.

I just finished cleaning up and painting some heater boxes I picked up from David and I am waiting for my wife to go to bed so I can bake the paint in the oven.

I hope to get them installed tomorrow and see how things work. Although my front fesh air vents don't work either so I need to see what I need to get those working as well.

My rear vents are carpeted over and my foot vents are missing the cables.

It is almost as big a process as rebuilding the enigne at this point just to get to a stock setup for air flow in the cab.

So since I have never experienced a stock heater setup I really don't know what to expect but I have heard getting your windows to defrost first thing in the morning can be a challenge.

Mateo wrote:

I have heard getting your windows to defrost first thing in the morning can be a challenge.

Aircooleds take a long while to heat up enough to actually be able to defrost windows. Plus usually the flex tubing from the heater channels to the windshield are usually broken, kinked, or eaten by mice, you lose a lot of heat that way. My 74 Super Beetle was able to defrost the passenger side windshield after about 10 minutes of driving. The left side never seemed to have the air flow.

Bring a towel with you.

The electric heater looks like a hair dryer I will let you know. My 914 had around 4 feet of heater box on each side an external blower and it was hard to get both sides to work right.

I am going to look at it tomorrow and let you guys know. My guess it is a Chinese piece of crap.

Well, this is where I always get a bit flustered with folks. The VW heater system works AWESOME if all is hooked up and working correctly. I actually melted a lunch box once. Defrosters are a bit slow.. because of air push.. but if you have all the cables and flaps working.. you close up everything but the defrosters and it will push air just fine.

And in all honesty, you get heat faster from an exhaust than you do water. So the heaters should work great. Think about it.. they built these cars in Germany.. it gets damn cold in Germany.

So the key is...... get all the flaps working and installed. Get all the cables working so you have control over the system. And David is right, make sure the rubber hoses going to the defrosters are in good shape and hooked up properly so they don't leak air.

If you have everything working and hooked up, you should have heat in about 5 minutes. It takes my 91 Chevy PU about 10 to 15 minutes before I feel warm air. Exhaust heat is almost instant.. water heat takes how ever long to heat up the water to around 150 degree's before the air feels warm.

The blower fans can help.. but you can not use the fast speed... if you rush air to quick over the exhaust, it can't heat up. But on the low settings it seems to work good..and a constant flow not dependent on speed of engine.

I use the marine style tube blowers as boosters on the stock system.. They are noisy, but they're nice for morning defrost or if you're stuck at a stop light at an idle. Like the guys said, you still need good working stock system to start with.

David's74Super wrote:

Aircooleds take a long while to heat up. My 74 Super Beetle was able to defrost the passenger side windshield after about 10 minutes of driving.

****I had removed and blocked the tubes going from the fan shroud to the heater boxes. That's why it took longer for my car to heat up. I just thought about this when reading Jeff's post. So I just had less flow without the fan pushing air through.

Well that is my goal, to get the stock system working up to par first and then go from there if anything more is required.

My now 'orange' heater boxes from David are looking to be in good shape.

I'll post picks later.

My floor vents need help and I cannot find a source so I am going to have to come up with something on my own...

Try these guys, http://www.karmannghia.com/links.asp Look under "mechanical" venting heating, exhaust. They have a lot of heater parts. Good Luck.

Thanks!

I am on a first name basis with the guys at airheadparts/kgpr!

The floor vents for the '69 are listed as 'HTF' and are not being reproduced. They currently do no have any used floor vents in stock either.

I did a little crafting with plastic in school way back when so I have some thoughts to recondition mine.

I just have to find my old recipes and mix up some glue...