Is she sick?

Ok. So to make it a long story short, I went to put oil in my car today. And when I took my oil cap off it was like my car had a cold... There was a snot like substance in there. *ewww* So idk whats wrong or if anything is for that matter. But what I heard the most is that i need to change my oil and oil filter... You guys have a clue?

THATS WHAT IT SOUNDS LIKE. IF THERE IS A MILKY LOOKING GOO ON THE CAP IT MOISTURE THAT HAS ACCUMULATED AND MIXED WITH THE OIL. AS LONG AS WHEN YOU DRAIN THE OIL IT DOESNT LOOK THE SAME WAY YOU SHOULD BE FINE. JUST CLEAN IT OFF AND REINSTALL

What kind of car are you referring to? If it is a air-cooled VW it is probably just moisture on the cap. If ts is a water cooled engine it could be as simple as a head gasket or as bad as a cracked block.

He talkin' about the SUPER! It is just moisture from the cap.. you are all stock, so you emulsion tube goes down to the bottom of the engine in case of over spill.. water can work it's way up on all these rainy days.. mixes in with the left over oil.

Like Cliff said, when you go to change your oil, just make sure it is not all white.. but most likely won't be.. I have had that happen before.

Yup, and even from driving in the rain. You end up sucking in moist air and it collects on the cap. No big deal.

Agree, just moisture built up in that area. My motor does that all the time. I never clean it though. Hardly ever change the oil either.

K! Thanks a TON guys! Really appreciate it!

How often do you add oil between oil changes?

Once a month. Give or take a few days.

Do you do it yourself

DC

No. I usually take it in and have the oil changed and then i add some when she needs it.

Now that you belong to our group and we have a Tech day please pretty please let up show you how to do an oil change. Save the $30.00 or so. We will even help you with the correct oil. I have a feeling you oil change place is not even using the correct oil for your car. You car needs zink in the oil 99 percent of the other cars on the dont plus zink clogs catalytic converters so I doubt they would have your oil.

Your car will love you more if you do the work on it.

Sorry!! Just did the oil change today... Didnt get your post till know... Which is like.... 3:46 pm.... Sorry! I will let you know next time though!!

Hi.
Yup, you need to use an HD oil as they have zinc, ESSENTIAL for the VW valve and cam system.

Also, your valves and brakes need to be adjusted at least every other oil change. Preferable every 3000 miles, but certainly every 6000.
Yes, valves.

"But no other car I ever had needed to have that done."

Yes, we know. Modern cars have self adjusting valves because they are hydraulically operated (with fluid). VW valves are mechanical. Same with the brakes. Modern cars have self adjusting brakes or disc brakes.
You have to remember that your car was essentially designed in the 1930s.

The most overlooked maintenance issue with novice VW owners is the valve adjustments. Valves out of adjustment can lead to poor performance, stalling, or if one breaks, an engine rebuild. EEEK!

Now, as scary as that sounds, it's actually pretty easy to do and one of the club members will be happy to show you how, or do it for you. It only takes maybe 15 minutes.

It's so common for a new aircooled VW owners to have a perfectly good car for 5000-10000 miles and then it starts to die when the engine is warm. This is very often a symptom of neglected valves.

Cute example of a common conversation:
New Owner: The car dies when it's warm." and/or "It used to run well, but now is sluggish."
Old Timer: "When was the last time the valves were adjusted?"
New Owner" "What?"
Old Timer: "Exactly!"

Spencer you are going to have to look in the straight 30 wt oil range to get what you need. I posted a while ago what is going on in the oil world. Look towards Valvoline Racing oil they have a racing oil with zink. Most drag racing cars run a sold lifer can that is very similar to yours. So the oil will be very compatible. I am using Rotella it is a Diesel motor motor oil they also run a similar cam to our cars and have a higher zink content.

One bad experience in a painfully expensive Type 4 motor you read up on the issue.

Thanks guys. And know that you guys mention it... I think that i do need my valves adjusted. She does kinda get sluggish on me when she is warm...

Bring it by, If you cannot wait until tech day. It just cannot be raining. My bug does not like rain.

You will need to run an oil with an API service rating of "SL." This has the proper additives and detergents required for older engines. A relatively inexpensive oil that meets this criteria is Castrol HD30. I have spoken to Castrol Oil Company and they have assured me there is enough zinc to accommodate our application. You should do your oil change every three thousand miles with a proper valve and brake adjustment. Set aside a Saturday and spend some quality time with your car. Not only will you realize the maintenance is a cinch you will also see developing issues that could lead to problems or disaster before they happen. A little preventative maintenance goes a long way.

I was just reading about this... glad you confirmed that on the castrol... I was looking on the back of the oils the other day and could not find any SL..

Thanks for the tid bit.. will change over and start running the HD30

If you want to run synthetic, Royal Purple also contains zinc along with the other required elements.

It is about double the cost of Castrol and other mineral based oils, but I have always had good luck with it.

Occasionally it does go on sale...

type 4 wrote:

Bring it by, If you cannot wait until tech day. It just cannot be raining. My bug does not like rain.

I dont know... Everytime i drive to Auburn she starts out great! BUT then she gets some issues goin on.... Its like shes bogged down or somethin. Got to keep her flored just to keep her at 50....

sounds like the main '3'..

Valves adjusted

timing adjusted

carb adjusted

that should take care of your problem... you should be able to do 70 the whole way..

Wow... Then in guess i need them adjusted.... Who wants to show me how to do that?

Someday when it is not raining and you have a couple of hours to spare come down the hill and I will show you how to tune your car. I have new points and condensers if you need them. I stock them and I bet we could scrounge up some plus if we need them. This is not a ten minute tune up we have to let the car cool down. Bring old cloths 10 bucks and I will teach you what to do. NO RAIN I am not going to get wet and my car does not like water either. It can be during the week. I have gloves so you wont get you hands dirty.

This is something you want to do sooner rather than later your car is talking to you. Spend some time or money your choice.

Bring a small note book you should keep track of you valve settings. This is the my last offer...........

Pretty soon my honey doo list will be in effect no more cars stuff.

Kyle

You may not realize it but a lot of modern cars and trucks need valve adjustment. I know two of my three Honda's require them my Dodge truck requires it. My old 1999 Toyota Camry required them. So my current fleet does require valve adjustment . Most people realize it is required. It is not every 3000 miles but it should be done.

Now brakes, unless they are disk you will need to adjust on your bug.