tune up help

It would be nice to get recommendations on what types of oils people are using and other parts as well. Should different oils be used down here in Sac compared to Gv. Are additives good or bad. Anything I should stay away from. What a tune up entails. How often they should get done.

I have already wrote about this. Valvoline has a product and Summit sell something. I run Rotella if I am out of the Summit oil. Just about everything else is JUNK. I wrote about this around a year ago after a oil issue. Dont waste you time formulating oil just buy the correct product the first time.

Valvoline Racing 20W-50 or Royal Purple Racing XPR 20W-50 oil. They both have appropriate levels of zinc and other additives for our air cooled engines.

I change the oil around 2000 miles, maybe a little longer. I wait until the oil starts to turn dark. When I can't see through it any more, it's time for a change. I also run an eternal oil filter, so I change that as well.

When I change the oil, I also adjust the valves, clean the air filter(s), and check the color of the plugs and their gap. You can tell an enormous amount of information from the color and erosion on a plug.

I check the brake fluid level and look for leaks.

Check to make sure intakes are tight, check exhaust headers are tight, and check tire pressure.

After that, turn the key and tear it up on 49 to make sure everything is performing as expected....

Valvoline Racing 20-50 all the way....

Mateo: You change your "eternal oil filter"? If it's eternal, is that really necessary?

Oh! She got you good!

Yea she did.

Forgot the old 'X', which stands for exceptional.

The key is racing... Dawn ask Ray what Valvoline is needed VP I think.


And Hugo was so nice to Velvet to be an organ donor

Dave,
Yes, Hugo is my hero.

Ray uses VR "Valvoline Racing" oil, 20-50. He said that VW always used Valvoline as spec. And the racing oil is even better for the HP engines that we often are running now.

Also, for the external oil filter, he has always only put an HP1 - Fram filter on Hugo. It has a 700# burst pressure, other brands (even racing ones) have a lower pressure burst rating and he's seen many blow out and result in a hand gernaded engine. HP1- Fram, all the way.

And the lines to the external filter are under very high pressure, so they should always be braided stainless. Not rubber. Same reason. When they go, you will lose your oil so fast, it will be too late by the time you stop. Trust me. I did this to Ray Jr's race car (street legal) when he loaned it to me one day and they were still using rubber lines. Fried his race engine before I could pull over. And don't be tempted to use s.s. on the inside and rubber on the outside, they still breakdown from the inside out. The kind Hugo has (and all his engines with external filters) is teflon on the inside and braided s.s. on the outside. It's expensive, but so is a new motor.

If you look at a HP1 and say a water cooled VW filter you will notice they look the same on the outside than you turn it on to its side and you will notice the oil passages are much bigger. Now dont go and wine about spending $10.00 for the oil filter and $8.00 per qt for oil. It you baby, it worth it.

You have an alternative run Castrol and see how fast you make it to Rays shop for a rebuild.


Thanks Dawn

I just purchased a new HP1 yesterday while I was out.

Once I mount it on May, it will become "eternal". lol

resistance is a bad thing

Just make sure the oil has an API Service of "SL." There is added zinc in the oil to provide the lubrication needed. You can find the rating on the back of the oil bottle. It is a little donut. I run Castrol HD 30. It has an APi service "SL" rating. Use "Bosch Super" plugs and change them about every third or fourth oil change. Inspect your wires for cracks or abrasions. Replace points condensor and reset the dwell. You can upgrade to a Petronix or Compufire electronic ignition and never have to worry about adjusting points again. Adjust valves and you are on your way.

Yea, what he said about the dwell.

LOTS of people prefer the Bosch Super plugs.

I am NGK fan myself and that is the one thing I am not going to budge on.

So

We are 50/50 on plugs if it is the right type of plug we run it. We have air cooled with NGK and a few Bosch's in Honda's what ever. A triple tipped titanium plug in a bug is a waist of money, the ignition is of a 1930 era. A dab of anti seize and go.

I heard of people having problems with the colored distributor caps. Any comments about these.

Colored and/or clear distributor caps are of poor quality and WILL cause ignition issues.

Stick with the stock cap. If you want bling, spend the money on a billet distro, it is cheaper in the long run that a new motor.

Or, a nice coil mount with a CB coil...

Colored distributor caps, put them on a chain and hang them around your rear view mirror if you want one in your car.

Frufru (S h I t) will get you in trouble every time. Chrome and fancy Chinese crap will let you down every time


Bosch is the only way except plugs. You are on your own

Exactly. Any dress up stuff is NOOOOOOO good.

Next you are going to tell us you order from JC Whitney

I own JC Whitney. Gotta problem with it? If you do I have plenty of cheap parts to beat you with.

What is this JC Whitney you speak of?

Mateo wrote:

What is this JC Whitney you speak of?

Matt is a JC Whitney virgin?

Is it like the dollar store for VW's?

It's a car parts catalog that's been around since the 70's. Used to buy a lot of stuff from them.

Its like porn for adolescents